Rock Climbing in Thunder Bay, Ontario

New photo for Paralyzed by Choice

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Thu, 23 Jul 2009 03:02:00 +0000

New Route on Caribou - Back to the Temple

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 21:59:00 +0000

Back to the Temple 5.10? 30m
FA: Alex Joseph, Jarron Childs Jul '09
Fantastic gear belay position on a nice ledge with great view of Temple Reef and beyond. Steep face covered in lichen that if completely cleaned likely would go at 11 but with heavy lichen was a weaving, rope hang with pendulums to decent holds through largely blank sections in the middle. Good finger crack corner pillar to start.

Latest New Route Info posted to TBay ACC - http://acctbay.ca

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:46:00 +0000

Saddle Up 5.7 (Passlake- Overhanging wall/No man's Land)

Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report: Saddle Up is to the left of Cave Crawler. Climb up either side of the same block as cave crawler. (sport, 5 bolts , 2 bolt anchor)
Established in november 08 , Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks
(Fun route and is great addition to Cave Crawler)

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Toss It Up 5.9+ 50m 2 pitch (Squaw Bay ( Chiller Pillar Wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report: F.A. Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison, Shawn Robinson P1 , FFA Duncan Hutchison, Derrik Patola P1, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks P2

Location: approximately 100m to the right of American Demon.
Pitch1 Start up a small shale band to a slaby face with a bolt. Travers to the right to reach a crack system leading to a fun roof..... 5.9+ 20m Bolted Belay.
Pitch 2 Travers right to a large ledge passing a bolt. Step down to a great clean crack all the way up .5.8 30m Gear :2 Bolts tcus, Rp’s, Gear to 4 ‘’ Note P1 may require a couple purple tcus
Rappel with two ropes to ground

This Is a highly recommended route lots of varied climbing * there is a third pitch to the top but is a JUNK pile but if you want to go to the top it is 10 meters easy loose Low 5th class, rap from pine tree.)

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Mc Jiggy 10C 14meters (Pass Lake (staricase wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Oct 08
Report: F.A Kyle Brooks, Alex Holowatty.. Located to the right of face dancing. Great route with wicked crux move .. 4 bolts

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Lookout 5.8+ 30m ( Lost Falls , Left Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Sept 20 /08
Report: FA: Kyle Brooks ,Duncan Hutchison FFA Kyle Brooks , Alex Holowatty

This route is located to the left of escape from the black flies. Climb the blockly start to a finger /hand crack in a corner. Catch a rest on the large ledge and follow the 3 bolts to the top. Bolted Belay

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Sunshine and lollipops 55 meters .10a 2 pitch (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Summer 08
Report: F.A : Alex Holowatty, Phil Dunn, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks,

Located 2.2km up the road, park at the pull over . hike straight up towards a prominent buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the traversing face , then thin cracks to a bolted belay . Extend all peices after 3 bolt. . 40 m 6 bolts Pitch 2: Climb flakes and crack to the top. 15. Gear : Nuts, lots TCU's, standard rack of cams , 6 + runners for pitch 1

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Autochone O-tak-thone 45 m 10c *** (Sqaw Bay, Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA:June 08 Duncan Hutch
Report: FFA : Duncan Hutchison

FA: Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison .Aug 07

This route shares the same start as pokey kitty. Start on the bolck, climb into the corner then bust out RIGHT.

This is an wicked good route that offers a little of every thing . Great climbing on steep rock Rapple from rings
Gear : lots! Double rack cams ,TCUs Gear to 3''

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Pokey Kitty 30m 10+ * (Squaw Bay ,Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA: July/08 Kyle Brooks
Report: To the right of Pokey Puppy/Tag 11A. Pokey Kitty stats on a block, head up a crack that leads into a corner then bust out LEFT towards some flakes protected by a bolt. Jam your way up the crack , to the start of a large flake cross over to the finger crack to your left . chains on top for belay Gear: standerd rack ,TCU, couple little tiny nuts

Note second pitch looks cool but lots of cleaning needed

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Water Side Attraction 2 pitch 50m 5.9 (Oliver Lake : Amphitheatre Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Aug 4/2008
Report: FFA : p1 Kyle Brooks p2 Danny O'Farrell

A boat is required to get to the Amphitheater. From west side of oliver lake. Canoe past several small cliffs (water soloing) , Then past 3 camps. And it is the first large 50 meter cliff . 5-10 minute canoe ride Great route with lots of adventure to go with it.(loose rock.)
Pitch1 Start a cedar tree with a small belay area . Climb up corner to large roof , traverse right then up to belay ledge Gear belay large cd's needed.
Pitch 2 Climb up under the large roof exit left though offwidth and top out to tree belay (careful for loose rock between belay and large roof) Gear: Standerd Rack with extra # 2-4

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deep water soloing (Oliver Lake)

Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Hot Summer Days
Report: There are a couple of fun deep water solos at Oliver Lake. 10 meters at most. Deep water off cliff face. A canoe is needed . do not climb close to any camps because of the private property. Crazy FUN

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Hidden Treasures 2pitch 70m 5.9 ** (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: May 08
Report: F.A Phil Dunn, Kyle Brooks
This route is located in front of fire# 386 sign/driveway . Just around the corner of Reflection Lake Resort
Pitch 1: Climb the slab working your way to the base of a flake crack with bolted belay . 5.6 R Rp's very useful.
Pitch 2 :Climb hand /fist crack that turns offwidth. Continue up a beautiful crack that quickly turns thin go staight up ( much harder than 5.9) or make a big reach right , to a bomber flake that brings you under a roof. Traverse roof to original crack top out to a bolted belay.
rappell route 2 -60 m ropes gets you just to the ground with stretch Gear full rack cd's double #3, # 6optional

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Flake It So, Commander Beta 5.8, 20m (Area 61, Refuge Wall)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

This route is midway along the 'Refuge Wall' about 20m to the right of 'Lunar-tick'. Start on easy terrain up to a ledge. Step out right and up through the hand crack in the face just to the right of the arete.

Area 61 directions: See 'Formic Invasion'.

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Lunar-tick 5.9, 13m (Area 61, Refuge Wall)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Scramble up to the ledge on the left side of the 'Refuge Wall'. Climb the discontinuous finger crack up to the ledge on the left and traverse right to another thin crack and finish through the fist crack to the top.

Area 61, Refuge Wall directions: see 'Formic Invasion'.

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Marvin's Madness 5.9, 20m (Area 61, Outer Limits Wall)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September 22, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Climb the hand crack in the small corner of the arete about 25m to the left of 'Close Encounters of the Bird Kind'. Negotiate your way up to the sloping ledge on the right 1/4 of the way up and on through the hand crack. A large standing block about 2/3 up on the left that seems to be secure offers a good rest. Desend from the slung spruce on the right corner of 'Morthership Buttress' (see directions from 'Close Encounters...').

Area 61 directions: See 'Formic Invasion'.

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Close Encounters of the Bird Kind 5.8, 25m (Area 61, Mothership Buttress)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September 22, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Derrik Patola & Shawn Robinson

Probably the best and certainly the most prominant route in the area. Levitate the beautiful hand/fist crack on the detatched pillar of the buttress for nice jams and good rests. Descend from the slung spruce on the right corner of the buttress. *Watch for nesting birds early in the season. If raptors are present, please respect their space and move to another part of the cliff. There appears to be a nest around the corner to the right of this route.

The Mothership Buttress is on the far right side of the larger/longer cliff line on the left as you look from the road.

Area 61 directions: See 'Formic Invasion'.

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UFO (Undercammed Falling Objects) 5.10b 12m (Area 61, Refuge Wall)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Climb the finger crack to the right of 'Formic Invasion' and work out the crux about halfway up.

'Refuge Wall' directions: see 'Formic Invasion'.

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Formic Invasion 5.10a, 12m (Area 61, Refuge Wall)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Look for the small face featuring 6 thin cracks on the upper right side of the Refuge Wall. This is the first route on this section of the wall from left to right. Start in the finger crack and work through the hand crack in the small roof .

Area 61 directions: Set your odometer at Broadway Ave. and drive south on Hwy. 61 for 51 km and park by the Fort William Historical Park signs. On the north (right) side of the road you will see two separate cliff lines. The 'Refuge Wall' is the smaller one to the right.

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Dude-He Free 5.7, 20 metres (High Falls, Pigeon River)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2005
Report: F.F.A: Marcus Himanen & Michelle Spakowski

To the right of the falls, begin in the easy corner to a ledge and up the hand crack in the corner to another large ledge. From here, walk off the ledge to the scramble gully on the right.

Directions: See 'Full Cavity Search'.

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Full Cavity Search 5.9, 2p. 30 metres (High Falls, Pigeon River)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2005
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Second pitch variation of 'Dude-He Free'.
P1. To the right of the falls, begin in an easy corner to a ledge and through a short hand crack to another ledge.
P2. Up the finger crack and break left traversing the horizontal crack and up for a belay at the tree.

Directions: Park at the visitor center on the Canadian side of the border and follow the marked trail under the highway to the falls.

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The Phoenix 5.9, 20 metres (Cavern Lake)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2004
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson, Derrik Patola & Jan Haink.

Approx. 25 metres left of 'Sole Covenant'. Begin in the finger to hand crack on the face to a ledge and through a short offwidth to the top. Tree belay/rappel.

Directions: See 'Free Spirit Express'.

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Sole Covenant 5.8, 15 metres (Cavern Lake)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2004
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson, Derrik Patola & Jan Haink. The nice hand crack in the corner left of 'Freier Geist'. Belay/descent as for 'Freier Geist'.

Directions: See 'Free Spirit Express'.

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Shale or Bail 5.10- R X, 4p (Lost Falls (Big Thunder Wall))
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: June, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Exemplary of multi-pitch adventure trad climbing in Thunder Bay. Start about 60 metres left around the corner from "Desparatus'.
P1. * Low 5th. On the shale choss, trend diagonally right passing a small cedar and continue with dubious protection to another cedar at the base of a corner where the rock is solid (optional belay). Climb up the corner to a ledge with a horizontal ceder tree, 5.7.
P2. Straight up the hand crack in the corner and through the overhang to a ledge. Go left here up the crack system to another ledge with a horizontal crack for a belay anchor, 5.9.
P3. Jam/layback the open book at 5.10a to a ledge.
P4. From the ledge, traverse right to the base of a short fist crack. Belay here. Fight the fist crack at 5.8 and on through a series of ledges to the trees at the top.
Gear: Standard rack with doubles of small to medium cams. All gear belays.

*Note: It's undetermined if this route shares the same start as 'Paralized By Choice'. Refer to description.

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Freier Geist 5.9, 15 metres (Cavern Lake)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2004
Report: F.F.A: Jan Haink, Derrik Patola & Shawn Robinson

Access: From 'Free Spirit Express'. See description.

Jam/layback the hand, fist to offwidth crack on the face to a big ledge. Two finish variations here will take you to a small tree belay/rappel at the top.
A large chock stone popped out on the second ascent resulting in a spectacular lead fall by Shawn Robinson.

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Free Spirit Express 5.8+, 27 metres (Cavern Lake)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: September, 2004
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson, Derrik Patola & Jan Haink

Paddle, motor boat or hike along the talus to the west end of the lake. Continue through the canyon along the talus for approx. 3/4 of a km or about 25 mins. until you see a prominent crack splitting the face on the right side of the canyon. This is the only obvious crack here for a few hundred metres in either direction. Start in the slightly overhanging hand crack to easier climbing above. Belay/descend from the big cedar. A short scramble straight up leads to more routes.

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Two Tiner 5.9, 25 metres (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Launch up the fist crack on the other side of the large boulder pillar from 'That Birdy Be Gone'. Break out and through the overhang. Follow the crack up and work right to the ledge. Easy 5th from here to the top. Maybe best done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

Other variations and possibilities in this area. Get after it people!

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That Birdy Be Gone 5.8, 25 metres (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July, 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola

Approx. 100 metres to the right of Shinanigans is a chimney that's part of a huge semi-detatched pillar. There is a large boulder pillar at its left corner (to the right of the climb). Scramble into the chimney and climb the crack on the left stemming were needed to gain the top of this fun route.

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Desparatus (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: July 2007
Report: F.F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola
5-10, 3P
Pitch 1: Begin in a corner about 30 metres left of Myopic Adventure past the big leaning pine. There is a large slab boulder near the base. Climb through a small roof (crux) and continue up the corner to a ledge.
Pitch 2: Start by passing a small tree with moderate climbing up a corner to a ledge and another corner to a ledge just below and right of an arete.
Pitch 3: Traverse left past the arete and up the face with horizontal cracks to a small corner. Finish with scrambling to a tree of your choice at the top.
Gear to 5 inches. All gear belays.

Desparatus is one of several first ascents I've done over the years that I have procrastinated on posting. It's worth mentioning however due to its quality and location. Stay tuned for a possible flood of new route postings in the future.

Enjoy.

Shawn

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The Right Of Way (Mt. Godfrey)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: Summer, 2005
Report: F.F.A. Brandon Pullan & Will Meinen

This route is 5.10, less than 30 metres and can be done in a single pitch with a few extra medium size cams. Aside from this see route posting below.

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Friendly Fire 5.9+, 2 Pitches (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by: Shawn Robinson
Climbed on: August, 2007
Report: F.A: Shawn Robinson & Derrik Patola.

Jamb, stem, layback and generally grovel your way up the wide crack just to the right of American Demon.
Descend from the slung tree above American Demon.
Gear: Double up on medium to large cams. #6 is usefull.

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Every Thing Goes Green - 10b (PassLake)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: june 6 2007
Report: Duncan and I think this may have been a f.f.a on this route.
We lead it on gear, the first placement 15 feet up was a little dubious.
i would not really want to whip on the placements.

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The Right Of Way (Mt. Godfrey)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Summer 05\'
Report: (the info in the new guidbook is a little off and does not do this climb justice)
The Right of Way 5.10d, 70m ***
FA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
FFA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen
An awesome line in a beautiful setting. It is the most obvious crack in the area and it is wild that it hadnt been climbed. Start 50m left of Echoes of the Totem at the base of a stellar hand crack.
P1: follow crack to ledge the matle to slanting ledge with anchors. 5.8 20m
P2: layback the thin corner crack stemming your way under a small roof. At the roof, pull the roof of small fingers, sparse feet and wild exposure into a dihedral then to a small ledge with anchors. 5.10d 30m
P3: jam the fun corner crack with ease to the cliff top. 5.9 20m

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Building An Ego (Pass Lake)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: summer 05
Report: Building an Ego! 5.11a, 25m
FA/FFA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
I established this route, solo ground up for the first 3 bolts.. it was my first ground up attempt for a pure sport climb and led to many out west where I am now. The last 5 bolts I rapped in from the top. This route is high quality and one of my favorite routes. It is the sport climb found 15m rite of Chinesse water Torture.. Next to the TR route Jesus' Hair Do. I Searched for hours with the guide (old and new) for a line yet climbed, the lake is pretty much climbed out but there is still a little potential.
ROUTE: Climb up past slopping ledges up and left past bad rock and into the crux.. power through a balancy sequence and then onto a funky face with horizontal slopers galore, anchor has quick links, rap. Have Fun!

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Des Nuts 5.9+ (claghorn long wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: oct 28 2006
Report: Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log, hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.

This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof. Pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06

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Sundance (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Aug. 06
Report: A wild crack line that separates a large pillar from the main wall north of mt. olympus. It is most likely the best crack ive ever been on..
P1: Climb the stellar crack to the inner cave belay. 5.9 (35m)
P2: exit out through large roof.... (project)

FA Patola, Pullan

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Paralyzed by Choice (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Alex Joseph
Climbed on: 08/2006
Report: 5.8 (3 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)

A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult.

P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-15m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-20m). P3: Traverse delicately (protect second) right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-20m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.

thunder bay climbing

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Wed, 18 Jul 2007 01:42:00 +0000

I'm going to thunder bay at the end of july and am wondering if there are any sport routes with relatively easy access that are worth the time. We only have a weekend up there and plan on doing some hiking and swimming as well. I would appreciate a recommendation and information about the area. thanks!

I found your information and tried to put up a post on the http://tbayrock.yourhomeplanet.com/ site.

Rachel A. Gordon

New Routes - Silver Harbour

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 01:56:00 +0000

Hi Alex,

The rock season here has come to an abrupt end, I wanted to send these two routes to you before I forgot them.

Silver Harbour - the the right of #61 Van Shaiky
"Meeek Chimney" 7meters 5.6 Trad
Climb the chimney marked by the word "Meeek" spray painted at its base.
FA: B. Mitchell & A. Mason Fall 06

Pass Lake - between routes #13 and 14
"That's Why I Come Up Here" 7meters 5.7 Trad
To the right of the dogs wall climb the overhanging crack in the cave facing the main cliff.
FFA: R. Clack & B. Mitchell Fall 04

Neither one is worth writing home about. Thanks for the dedication to continuing this guidebook.

Peace,
Bill Mitchell

Scott

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 27 Nov 2006 18:23:00 +0000

Hi there. My name is Andrea and I am Scott's cousin. Scott was adopted by my aunt and uncle Jim and Kay Fettes. I don't beleive Scott has sought after any information about his biological family. I'm fairly certain he was born in Canada though. And more info you can email me at andrea43@gmail.com

Posted by Andrea McGowan

Getting Stung

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Tue, 21 Nov 2006 00:44:00 +0000

This route is actually a 5.8

Posted by kyle brooks

"New Route" Getting Stung 5.7

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sun, 19 Nov 2006 02:53:00 +0000

Claghorn Long wall
This climb is located about 50 meters to the right of CNN. (flaging tape marks this climb at the base)
Climb up to a ledge the climb up the corner to a ledge, belay or continue up to the bolted belay at the top. gear to 3 inch.
F.A Danny O'Farrell, kyle Brooks, Annick Blais
Ps we all got stung just befor the ascent of this route Danny got it the worst...

Posted by kyle

"New Route" Des Nuts 5.9+

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sun, 19 Nov 2006 02:37:00 +0000

this route is at claghorn long wall.
Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.

This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06

Posted by kyle

Forum for climbers in Tbay

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:23:00 +0000

Looks like Andrew Lang is runing a bulletin board for climbers in Tbay!

Everyone check it out and use it whenever you can!
<a href="http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay">here</a>
http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay

Posted by Dave H

cam-a-lot

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 06 Nov 2006 03:21:00 +0000

I never tried to claim the first ascent of this route. Further, I did not live in Thunder Bay in '95. I did however spend several days scrubbing the route and bolting the belays. Jody.

Posted by Jody Bernst

New Route - The Landmark Mt. Olympus, Orient Bay

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Thu, 26 Oct 2006 14:21:00 +0000

Over the weekend of Sept 16th & 17th, Jody Bernst and I estrablished a new route at Mt. Olympus that has been referred to as "The Landmark" (the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff) It was reported that a party had ventured part way up this route in the past, we found no sign of this. The route currently finishes just below the large roof, as we ran out of time to finish it. Some bolts were added for future free climbing and to keep the grade within the reach of most experinced climbers. We have graded the route 5.9 A2, and it involves thin nailing, bird beaks, bashies, a hook or two, and some wide crack on the second pitch. No more than 2-3 body weight placements in a row, with some bolts in between. Pitch 1 start on the splitter hand and finger crack that is on the right side of the small pillar at the base. Climb to the top of the pillar and then ascend the thin crack(knife blade and beaks mostly)on the right hand wall of the dihedral. Passing bolts bashies and other fixed pins to the belay, 30m long. Pitch 2 - climb the wide crack to the belay, 20m long. Pitch 3- only goes up about 3 m to a bolt. This climb is an enjoyable aid climb and has good potential for free climbing. Please leave ALL fixed pro in situ (pins, beaks, bashies etc.) , for future parties and to minimize the rock degredation. On another note last fall on the labour day weekend the first pitch of "The Passage to Valhalla" saw it's F.F.A. by myself and the proposed grade is 5.11+ or 5.12-, most of the gear was allready in place. I will attempt to free the pitch next year placing all gear as I go. Enjoy the routes!!

Posted by Steve Charlton

Poky-Puppy Free

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 23 Oct 2006 06:16:00 +0000

Congrats to you if you free climbed this route.
I do recall one point close to the top where I lead to the left around a flake, and hand hammered (4) RED-HEADS with 3/8 bolts in them and used stoppers as a ladder to get up a blank section. (10 feet +- long). The top of the route ended with 2 RED-HEADS, hangers, biners? and some webbing? (Hell something like that this was back in 1983!)
The lower section of the wall was some feee climbing (low down) then the leapfrogging of cams, and the uses of a few pins, Not sure if we left any in there.
Peter Powell Jugged the line to clean it!

Posted by Shaun Parent-Stewart B.C.

Atikokan Pit photo

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 23 Oct 2006 06:09:00 +0000

Great photos of the wall taken in the fall of 1983. The water at this time was some 25 meters below. By 1984 it was 5 meters below the bottom of the cliff. By 1996 there was a salmon farm in the pit, and this wall was underwater. This wall (Cant recall what we named it) had over 20 bolted routes, and finger cracks. All the hanging belays, bolts, pitons, slings and such are now underwater. It was indeed an interesting area to climb, and one that is now lost forever!

Posted by Shaun Parent -Stewart B.C.

Ice Season!!!

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Thu, 12 Oct 2006 20:04:00 +0000

take a look outside, the ice season is comming!!! i'm so stoked!

Posted by Andrew Lang

you found me!

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Wed, 20 Sep 2006 17:20:00 +0000

yep that would explain why it was so stinking hard, thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

squaw bay

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Tue, 19 Sep 2006 21:30:00 +0000

i went to squaw today and saw that the route you were on andrew was our mixed route 'beer run'. the upper part would be quite run out due to the fact when we established the climb we used a few ice screws. we began cleaning a new crack just to the rite today.

Posted by brandon

where was i

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 18 Sep 2006 21:02:00 +0000

hey i think i may know somewhat where i was, i think beside teenage porn stars, is there a new line going in there? i have pictures and such so maybe they would help... i don't know how to post them...they are on my blog, http://langandrew.blogspot.com/ it's the 2nd picture from the top, that's where i decided to bail. anyways, is there anyone out there looking for a partner? i don't have transport, but i do have gear, 2 ropes, passive trad rack and ice stuff. i can climb 5.10ish, let me know lang_andrew@hotmail.com

Posted by Andrew Lang

Where Was I

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:07:00 +0000

no it was on a bolt, i think 3 or 4 up, it was directly in from the breakwater parking spot, it was kind of an inside corner to a crack system.

Posted by Andrew Lang

response to andrew

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sat, 16 Sep 2006 23:00:00 +0000

Andrew..
was the biner on a pin about 10m off the deck

Posted by brandon

Where Was I

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 22:02:00 +0000

Hey guys i recently was at squaw bay and just jumped on a cliimb... i have a strong feeling that i was way off in my actual route choice, actually i think i was not even on the right wall. what i ended up getting on may infact be a project and i have someones bail off biner. i swapped it for a cold shut... so if you have any info on any of the projects going down and who was climbing them... i have a biner and am kinda curious about what climb i was on.
thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

Squaw Bay - First Buttress Topo from 2nd Ed. Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sun, 10 Sep 2006 06:12:00 +0000

This topo never made it into the 3rd edition guide. This is where you will find Rehearsal (back cover of the 2nd edition guide).

Squaw Bay - Tag = Poky Puppy free

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sat, 09 Sep 2006 18:43:00 +0000

After a Labour Day visit to Squaw Bay and a look at photos after, it is pretty clear to me that Tag (pitch 1 - 10c) is the free ascent of the aid line Poky Puppy A2.

This is Dave Benton's topo.

This is Shaun Parent's photo of the FA.

This is my photo for reference.

Squaw Bay - Cream and Suga is right of Poky Kitty

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Sat, 09 Sep 2006 17:12:00 +0000

After seeing this nice line on the approach and exit of a Labour Day Squaw Bay climb, a closer look indicated bolts on top and a red piton in the crack of the lower portion of the climb. That had me wondering...

So I went back to my 2003 notes and found the following from Dave Benton's hand drawn topos of the area and new climbs.

He indicates where the new route Cream and Suga is and below on the topo indicates both the piton and bolts on top.

If you take his topo and match it with these photos that I took, I am pretty sure that these are the same routes.

This is the route framed by the trees on the approach boulders.

This is a look up at the start from the base of the climb.

Historical - Atikokan Pit

noreply@blogger.com (Alex J) — Tue, 22 Aug 2006 03:25:00 +0000

Here is what looks like a great climbing area - sadly flooded from Shaun Parent Collection.