Rock Climbing in Thunder Bay, Ontario

thunder bay climbing

2007-07-17T21:42:00.001-04:00

I'm going to thunder bay at the end of july and am wondering if there are any sport routes with relatively easy access that are worth the time. We only have a weekend up there and plan on doing some hiking and swimming as well. I would appreciate a recommendation and information about the area. thanks!

I found your information and tried to put up a post on the http://tbayrock.yourhomeplanet.com/ site.

Rachel A. Gordon

New Routes - Silver Harbour

2006-11-29T20:56:00.000-05:00

Hi Alex,

The rock season here has come to an abrupt end, I wanted to send these two routes to you before I forgot them.

Silver Harbour - the the right of #61 Van Shaiky
"Meeek Chimney" 7meters 5.6 Trad
Climb the chimney marked by the word "Meeek" spray painted at its base.
FA: B. Mitchell & A. Mason Fall 06

Pass Lake - between routes #13 and 14
"That's Why I Come Up Here" 7meters 5.7 Trad
To the right of the dogs wall climb the overhanging crack in the cave facing the main cliff.
FFA: R. Clack & B. Mitchell Fall 04

Neither one is worth writing home about. Thanks for the dedication to continuing this guidebook.

Peace,
Bill Mitchell

Scott

2006-11-27T13:23:00.000-05:00

Hi there. My name is Andrea and I am Scott's cousin. Scott was adopted by my aunt and uncle Jim and Kay Fettes. I don't beleive Scott has sought after any information about his biological family. I'm fairly certain he was born in Canada though. And more info you can email me at andrea43@gmail.com

Posted by Andrea McGowan

Getting Stung

2006-11-20T19:44:00.000-05:00

This route is actually a 5.8

Posted by kyle brooks

"New Route" Getting Stung 5.7

2006-11-18T21:53:00.000-05:00

Claghorn Long wall
This climb is located about 50 meters to the right of CNN. (flaging tape marks this climb at the base)
Climb up to a ledge the climb up the corner to a ledge, belay or continue up to the bolted belay at the top. gear to 3 inch.
F.A Danny O'Farrell, kyle Brooks, Annick Blais
Ps we all got stung just befor the ascent of this route Danny got it the worst...

Posted by kyle

"New Route" Des Nuts 5.9+

2006-11-18T21:37:00.000-05:00

this route is at claghorn long wall.
Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.

This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06

Posted by kyle

Forum for climbers in Tbay

2006-11-13T11:23:00.000-05:00

Looks like Andrew Lang is runing a bulletin board for climbers in Tbay!

Everyone check it out and use it whenever you can!
<a href="http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay">here</a>
http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay

Posted by Dave H

cam-a-lot

2006-11-05T22:21:00.000-05:00

I never tried to claim the first ascent of this route. Further, I did not live in Thunder Bay in '95. I did however spend several days scrubbing the route and bolting the belays. Jody.

Posted by Jody Bernst

New Route - The Landmark Mt. Olympus, Orient Bay

2006-10-26T10:21:00.000-04:00

Over the weekend of Sept 16th & 17th, Jody Bernst and I estrablished a new route at Mt. Olympus that has been referred to as "The Landmark" (the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff) It was reported that a party had ventured part way up this route in the past, we found no sign of this. The route currently finishes just below the large roof, as we ran out of time to finish it. Some bolts were added for future free climbing and to keep the grade within the reach of most experinced climbers. We have graded the route 5.9 A2, and it involves thin nailing, bird beaks, bashies, a hook or two, and some wide crack on the second pitch. No more than 2-3 body weight placements in a row, with some bolts in between. Pitch 1 start on the splitter hand and finger crack that is on the right side of the small pillar at the base. Climb to the top of the pillar and then ascend the thin crack(knife blade and beaks mostly)on the right hand wall of the dihedral. Passing bolts bashies and other fixed pins to the belay, 30m long. Pitch 2 - climb the wide crack to the belay, 20m long. Pitch 3- only goes up about 3 m to a bolt. This climb is an enjoyable aid climb and has good potential for free climbing. Please leave ALL fixed pro in situ (pins, beaks, bashies etc.) , for future parties and to minimize the rock degredation. On another note last fall on the labour day weekend the first pitch of "The Passage to Valhalla" saw it's F.F.A. by myself and the proposed grade is 5.11+ or 5.12-, most of the gear was allready in place. I will attempt to free the pitch next year placing all gear as I go. Enjoy the routes!!

Posted by Steve Charlton

Poky-Puppy Free

2006-10-23T02:16:00.000-04:00

Congrats to you if you free climbed this route.
I do recall one point close to the top where I lead to the left around a flake, and hand hammered (4) RED-HEADS with 3/8 bolts in them and used stoppers as a ladder to get up a blank section. (10 feet +- long). The top of the route ended with 2 RED-HEADS, hangers, biners? and some webbing? (Hell something like that this was back in 1983!)
The lower section of the wall was some feee climbing (low down) then the leapfrogging of cams, and the uses of a few pins, Not sure if we left any in there.
Peter Powell Jugged the line to clean it!

Posted by Shaun Parent-Stewart B.C.

Atikokan Pit photo

2006-10-23T02:09:00.000-04:00

Great photos of the wall taken in the fall of 1983. The water at this time was some 25 meters below. By 1984 it was 5 meters below the bottom of the cliff. By 1996 there was a salmon farm in the pit, and this wall was underwater. This wall (Cant recall what we named it) had over 20 bolted routes, and finger cracks. All the hanging belays, bolts, pitons, slings and such are now underwater. It was indeed an interesting area to climb, and one that is now lost forever!

Posted by Shaun Parent -Stewart B.C.

Ice Season!!!

2006-10-12T16:04:00.000-04:00

take a look outside, the ice season is comming!!! i'm so stoked!

Posted by Andrew Lang

you found me!

2006-09-20T13:20:00.000-04:00

yep that would explain why it was so stinking hard, thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

squaw bay

2006-09-19T17:30:00.000-04:00

i went to squaw today and saw that the route you were on andrew was our mixed route 'beer run'. the upper part would be quite run out due to the fact when we established the climb we used a few ice screws. we began cleaning a new crack just to the rite today.

Posted by brandon

where was i

2006-09-18T17:02:00.000-04:00

hey i think i may know somewhat where i was, i think beside teenage porn stars, is there a new line going in there? i have pictures and such so maybe they would help... i don't know how to post them...they are on my blog, http://langandrew.blogspot.com/ it's the 2nd picture from the top, that's where i decided to bail. anyways, is there anyone out there looking for a partner? i don't have transport, but i do have gear, 2 ropes, passive trad rack and ice stuff. i can climb 5.10ish, let me know lang_andrew@hotmail.com

Posted by Andrew Lang

Where Was I

2006-09-18T16:07:00.000-04:00

no it was on a bolt, i think 3 or 4 up, it was directly in from the breakwater parking spot, it was kind of an inside corner to a crack system.

Posted by Andrew Lang

response to andrew

2006-09-16T19:00:00.000-04:00

Andrew..
was the biner on a pin about 10m off the deck

Posted by brandon

Where Was I

2006-09-11T18:02:00.000-04:00

Hey guys i recently was at squaw bay and just jumped on a cliimb... i have a strong feeling that i was way off in my actual route choice, actually i think i was not even on the right wall. what i ended up getting on may infact be a project and i have someones bail off biner. i swapped it for a cold shut... so if you have any info on any of the projects going down and who was climbing them... i have a biner and am kinda curious about what climb i was on.
thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

Squaw Bay - First Buttress Topo from 2nd Ed. Guide

2006-09-10T02:12:00.000-04:00

This topo never made it into the 3rd edition guide. This is where you will find Rehearsal (back cover of the 2nd edition guide).

Squaw Bay - Tag = Poky Puppy free

2006-09-09T14:43:00.000-04:00

After a Labour Day visit to Squaw Bay and a look at photos after, it is pretty clear to me that Tag (pitch 1 - 10c) is the free ascent of the aid line Poky Puppy A2.

This is Dave Benton's topo.

This is Shaun Parent's photo of the FA.

This is my photo for reference.

Squaw Bay - Cream and Suga is right of Poky Kitty

2006-09-09T13:12:00.000-04:00

After seeing this nice line on the approach and exit of a Labour Day Squaw Bay climb, a closer look indicated bolts on top and a red piton in the crack of the lower portion of the climb. That had me wondering...

So I went back to my 2003 notes and found the following from Dave Benton's hand drawn topos of the area and new climbs.

He indicates where the new route Cream and Suga is and below on the topo indicates both the piton and bolts on top.

If you take his topo and match it with these photos that I took, I am pretty sure that these are the same routes.

This is the route framed by the trees on the approach boulders.

This is a look up at the start from the base of the climb.

Historical - Atikokan Pit

2006-08-21T23:25:00.000-04:00

Here is what looks like a great climbing area - sadly flooded from Shaun Parent Collection.

Anyone ever find The Wrinkles at Squaw Bay?

2006-08-21T23:19:00.000-04:00

Here is the topo from the 1st and 2nd editions of the guidebook. Note the bolts. Anyone able to find this area let me know - Alex alxj@yahoo.com

Mckenzie Cliffs CLOSED

2006-08-21T23:15:00.000-04:00

Since the topo didn't make it into the 3rd edition of the guidebook I have posted for those who are interested and don't have a 2nd edition to refer to.

route looks cool

2006-08-21T22:48:00.000-04:00

Paralyzed by Choice..
Route looks awesome guys.. congrats.. cant wait to get on er..

Posted by brandon

Rock Climbing in Thunder Bay, Ontario

thunder bay climbing

New Routes - Silver Harbour

Scott

Getting Stung

"New Route" Getting Stung 5.7

"New Route" Des Nuts 5.9+

Forum for climbers in Tbay

cam-a-lot

New Route - The Landmark Mt. Olympus, Orient Bay

Poky-Puppy Free

Atikokan Pit photo

Ice Season!!!

you found me!

squaw bay

where was i

Where Was I

response to andrew

Where Was I

Squaw Bay - First Buttress Topo from 2nd Ed. Guide

Squaw Bay - Tag = Poky Puppy free

Squaw Bay - Cream and Suga is right of Poky Kitty

Historical - Atikokan Pit

Anyone ever find The Wrinkles at Squaw Bay?

Mckenzie Cliffs *CLOSED*

route looks cool

Mckenzie Cliffs CLOSED