you found me!

yep that would explain why it was so stinking hard, thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

squaw bay

i went to squaw today and saw that the route you were on andrew was our mixed route 'beer run'. the upper part would be quite run out due to the fact when we established the climb we used a few ice screws. we began cleaning a new crack just to the rite today.

Posted by brandon

where was i

hey i think i may know somewhat where i was, i think beside teenage porn stars, is there a new line going in there? i have pictures and such so maybe they would help... i don't know how to post them...they are on my blog, http://langandrew.blogspot.com/ it's the 2nd picture from the top, that's where i decided to bail. anyways, is there anyone out there looking for a partner? i don't have transport, but i do have gear, 2 ropes, passive trad rack and ice stuff. i can climb 5.10ish, let me know lang_andrew@hotmail.com

Posted by Andrew Lang

Where Was I

no it was on a bolt, i think 3 or 4 up, it was directly in from the breakwater parking spot, it was kind of an inside corner to a crack system.

Posted by Andrew Lang

response to andrew

Andrew..
was the biner on a pin about 10m off the deck

Posted by brandon

Where Was I

Hey guys i recently was at squaw bay and just jumped on a cliimb... i have a strong feeling that i was way off in my actual route choice, actually i think i was not even on the right wall. what i ended up getting on may infact be a project and i have someones bail off biner. i swapped it for a cold shut... so if you have any info on any of the projects going down and who was climbing them... i have a biner and am kinda curious about what climb i was on.
thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

Squaw Bay - First Buttress Topo from 2nd Ed. Guide

This topo never made it into the 3rd edition guide. This is where you will find Rehearsal (back cover of the 2nd edition guide).

Squaw Bay - Tag = Poky Puppy free

After a Labour Day visit to Squaw Bay and a look at photos after, it is pretty clear to me that Tag (pitch 1 - 10c) is the free ascent of the aid line Poky Puppy A2.

This is Dave Benton's topo.



This is Shaun Parent's photo of the FA.



This is my photo for reference.

Squaw Bay - Cream and Suga is right of Poky Kitty

After seeing this nice line on the approach and exit of a Labour Day Squaw Bay climb, a closer look indicated bolts on top and a red piton in the crack of the lower portion of the climb. That had me wondering...

So I went back to my 2003 notes and found the following from Dave Benton's hand drawn topos of the area and new climbs.



He indicates where the new route Cream and Suga is and below on the topo indicates both the piton and bolts on top.



If you take his topo and match it with these photos that I took, I am pretty sure that these are the same routes.



This is the route framed by the trees on the approach boulders.



This is a look up at the start from the base of the climb.