Monday, August 21, 2006

Historical - Atikokan Pit

Here is what looks like a great climbing area - sadly flooded from Shaun Parent Collection.

Anyone ever find The Wrinkles at Squaw Bay?

Here is the topo from the 1st and 2nd editions of the guidebook. Note the bolts. Anyone able to find this area let me know - Alex alxj@yahoo.com

Mckenzie Cliffs *CLOSED*

Since the topo didn't make it into the 3rd edition of the guidebook I have posted for those who are interested and don't have a 2nd edition to refer to.

route looks cool

Paralyzed by Choice..
Route looks awesome guys.. congrats.. cant wait to get on er..

Posted by brandon

Where the hell is CNN on the Claghorn Long Wall?

If you have found and climbed what is supposed to be a stellar line - CNN drop me an email with photos or route finding info to Alex - alxj@yahoo.com

Looking back at old data I see there may be a discrepancy with 2 pieces of information from Dan Green. One of his topos puts CNN in line with the drainage to the south, significantly away from Limited Time Offer etc. [We tried to find it according this and no luck - just bush wacking]










However, this hand drawn topo places it much closer [I assume this is correct]

FYI - Wolf River Crag

When one drives east on 11/17 and passes over Wolf river (just after Coldwater River) a west facing cliff appears on the north side of the road. Closer investigation finds that this crag is on the side of a road, very accessible, some rotten rock at the bottom, some Red Rocks like rock at the bottom as well, fairly lichen covered like McKenzie but some potential for a few climbs.

climbing

hi im looking for people to climb with during the day, i work an eveing shift and dont get out much because everyone is working, willing to climb anything trad, sprot, aid ,toprope .. kyle brooks
brookyle@hotmail.com
6226855

Posted by kyle brooks

Saturday, August 19, 2006

New Route - Lost Falls - Paralyzed by Choice

Paralyzed by Choice 5.8 (3 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)

A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult.

P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-15m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-20m). P3: Traverse delicately (protect second) right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-20m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.

Kopka Cliff and Maraton (Coldwell) Cliffs

Various emails...

Hey Jake,
Kopka cliff is on the armstrong highway. It is the big cliff on the right side of the road before you cross the kopka river. Many good routes, its been a decade since we climbed there. I was asked to place some areas in the north american climbing book where you saw it back in the early 90's?

Anyhow watch for loose rock, go in the fall when there are no bugs!
Camping is near the river, i think on the other side of the road.

Shaun Parent

Hey Alex,
I'm wondering if you have any information on Kopka wall out Hwy #527 towards Armstrong. I saw it listed in a North American climbing road trip book. They were saying it is a 150Ft Cack Climbing Crag. I'm just wondering if it is worth going and checking it out, when I return to T-Bay in September?

They also mentioned a wall just outside Marathon (Coldwell). Does not sound as appealing. Any info would be great.

Jake

Sunday, August 13, 2006

gear

any one lose some gear on gang wars.. let me know
brookyle@hotmail.com

Posted by kyle brooks

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Due to ridiculous spam - email me alxj with no e at yahoo . com