Saturday, August 19, 2006

New Route - Lost Falls - Paralyzed by Choice

Paralyzed by Choice 5.8 (3 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)

A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult.

P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-15m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-20m). P3: Traverse delicately (protect second) right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-20m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.

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