Tuesday, December 14, 2004

13a business

Echoes of the totem 13a?
I've thought about the grade of this route a lot. Grading seems very subjective a lot of the time and so i was hesitant to grade the climb after i redpointed it late this fall. First I'd like to thank Brandon and Steve for putting a lot of passion, and hard work into bolting this route-a fine line. Although it is a dificult climb I feel it is not a 13a. Its a technical face climb that is slightly overhanging-about 100 feet or so. There is a crux right off the ground and another around the seventh bolt. Both cruxes are reach dependent- both brandon and steve have easier sequences through the first crux than me. After the second crux you can shake out for a long long time making the climb easier. If your on the short side the climb is 12c/d if your taller it is more like 12c. But then again thats my subjective opinion and we will have to see how the t-bay climbing community feels about the grade after more people send the climb next season.

2 crown

Posted by json

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