On the Run with Bin Laden

> On the Run with Bin Laden is a wicked route minus the ivy, do in fall.
> Two pitches of amazing climbing. First pitch is amazing Squamish Like slab
> climbing with two bolts and gear where you need it. The belay (ring
> bolts )( is on a huge ledge. The second pitch is incredible sporty trad, with a
> bolt to protect the exit crux moves Both pitches 5.9. Great multi pitch 5.9
> has been scrubed and cl;eaned of loose rock.
> Excellent route putted up by me and Matt p ground up with no bolts on
> first acsent then re-bolted on 2nd ascent

[Matt]

Spiral Galaxy First Ascent?

> Alex, I did climb Spiral Galaxy with Shaun Parent and a number of other first ascents. I will need to consult my log book as I can not remember details from back then. Unfortunately, my log book and photos are at my cottage and I will not have access to them until the weekend. I will take a look at what I have and send you some info and photos next week.

> Thanks for bringing back some good memories.
> Scott.
>
> Scott Kress
> Summit Training & Development Ltd.
> xxx-xxx-TEAM (xxxx)

> > > 16 SPIRAL GALAXY *** 32m 5.7
> > > FA: S. Parent, Scott Kress '81
> > > Right of Beam me up... , climb up the crack to the roof and then
> > traverse
> > > out onto ledge to the belay, then up the crux to same anchors as
> Beam
> > me
> > > up... Rappel on Beam Me Up Scotty. [TRAD - Pro gear to 3.5"]
> >
> > I'm pretty sure this route was not put up by Scott Kress as he was not
>
> > in T-bay in 1981. You can contact him at scott@summittraining.com he
> may
> > have some pictures to. - Scott Morgan

Climber's Cliffs

> Hey Alex ;
> Here is the info you require.
>
> Chris bolted Electric Gigilo, we got to the very last move on lead,
> final moves are the crux. We felt it was 5.12 +.Bolted spring of 99.
>
> There are only two moves on top of the tower.
> Thick and thin Chris did firs ascent of.
>
> The overhanging sport route is 5.12ish (called ARRESted FOR MOPERY) as
> well and the red sling is not for aid rather we tagged it three years ago to
> reserve it for our redpoint attempts, everyone ignor that now. The
> opening moves are easier then they look, the upper section is quite harder than
> it looks.
>
> The pinnacle is called Stiffy, 5.10-, boolted and climbed by me, a real
> nice warm up for arrested for mopery. I am not sure whether or not climb 28
> existes. There are no bolted climbs past Feature Presentation. I you
> have any other questions regarding the routes email me anytime. I cannot wait
> until it comes out good on you for doing the work. Way to go .
> I will definitely pick one up, let me know where to get one .
> Congradulations
>
ALex!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> !!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Are doing the routes for Squaw Bay or Orient Bay?? Just curious.
> Cheers

[Jeff]

New Thunder Bay Rock Climbing Guide Book

Hi Alex here is some info I hope it helps I look for pictures and let you know what I have.

> ANY COMMENTS ON THIS? RANDY SUGGESTED NOT EVEN INCLUDING IT BECAUSE HE
> COULDN'T REMEMBER ANYTHING ELSE AND IT MAY BE PRIVATE PROPERTY. BUT I WANT
> TO MAKE THIS GUIDE A HISTORY PIECE AS WELL SO I HAVE INCLUDED THIS.
>
> HWY 61
> Steep Dihedrals and Corner Cracks, Bastion Wall of Cliffs in Front of Main
> Cliff Wall Allowing for 3 Sides/Faces of Climbing
>

Awsome potential for routes here. It should definitly be looked in to who owns the property and if access can be had. I remember talking with S. Parent once about this place and he said that there was some exploration done by I think him, Bill Ostrum, perhaps Paul Dedi. I did see some webbing on one route. But really the place is untouched. If I were to come back to T-bay I would for sure explore it again as a area close to the city it has good potential. Routes you have listed are right and they are located somewere on the left end.

> 3 DOUBLE BYPASS (2P)* 65m 5.9
> FA: S.Charlton, R.Treneer, Shafton Thomas
> Trend right on and around the corner once above the first cedar tree
> squeeze. A variety of options with some potential runouts. [TRAD]
>
> 4 LET'S BE FRANK (2P) ** 72m 5.8+
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> Scramble up a loose slope and start at the top of an old fixed rope at
> four bolts. P1 - Climb up past a bolt onto a big ledge. Now the crux
> involves a wicked mantle up onto the next ledge, then head right up and
> around the corner (10m) to a gear belay (1/2" - 2"). P2 - Then up the
> first obvious crack to another gear belay and then follow straight up.
> Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel down Cedar Haven. A possible variation
> that may have been climbed is a direct start from the bolt/rope ledge
> straight up through the overhang above to the first gear belay station.
> [MIXED - Pro gear to 3", 1 BOLT]
>
> 5 LET'S BE FRANK DIRECT START (1ST PITCH) 20m C2
> FA: R. Lebel, R. Reed
> Listed as not worth doing climbing and likely too loose to go free. [AID]
>
> 6 LET'S BE FRANK VARIATION (2ND PITCH) ** 45m 5.10?
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> From the first gear belay stance, continue right 5m further on the ledge
> and belay in a corner crack. Follow the vertical corner crack straight up
> through tougher laybacks to the top. Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel
> down Cedar Haven. [MIXED, 1 BOLT]

Let's be Frank went up after Cedar Haven. The route was climbed as followed. The first pitch went up to the mantle then up to the ledge that traverses right from there I climbed straight up the crack till the large ledge approx. 15-20m from the to and belayed from gear. Scott Hamilton then lead the short 2nd pitch. Currently the way you have described the pitch it is 3 pitches. Dave Nix was not involved in the climbing of the FFA. But it was him and I that cleaned the entire route one afternoon. I then went back with Scott H because Dave couldn't make it.

> 16 SPIRAL GALAXY *** 32m 5.7
> FA: S. Parent, Scott Kress '81
> Right of Beam me up... , climb up the crack to the roof and then traverse
> out onto ledge to the belay, then up the crux to same anchors as Beam me
> up... Rappel on Beam Me Up Scotty. [TRAD - Pro gear to 3.5"]

I'm pretty sure this route was not put up by Scott Kress as he was not in T-bay in 1981. You can contact him at scott@summittraining.com he may have some pictures to.

> 21 CAM-A-LOT (2P) ***(PREVIOUSLY METEOR SHOWER) 68m(25m) 5.10b(5.9)
> FA: Brendan Waye (Meteor Shower)FFA: S. Morgan (p1), J.C. Debeau (p2)
> '95 FFA: Jody Bernst (Cam-A-Lot)
> This is the crags classic hand crack. Begin climbing the lefthand crack
> stemming when required. Then alternate to the righthand crack. At about
> 20m a green sling may still preserve the history of Brendan Waye's first
> ascent. Stay to the left in the large chute stemming up a hand crack to
> the bolted belay station. [TRAD]

Meteor shower originlly only went up about 18m. Myself and JC then did the FFA of the whole line which we renamed CAM-A-LOT. I'm a little confused as to how you've described the route length. The route is from what I can remember about 65-70m with the 1st pitch a full 50m. As well Jody's name shouldn't be there as the route was done clean on the first ascent by myself and JC.

Scott Morgan

Claghorn

hi alex,

i heard that your putting togther a resource for tbay climbers and that you need more info. i put up some routes at claghorn in the fall of '99 with dan green, rene lebel and peter smith, which were put into the tbay ACC newsletter at some point. that's likely your best bet for a topo and map, it's been awhile. i have some great photos, in ontario. give me a call at home if i can help, dylan said that you called but i missed you.

the routes at claghorn are really quite nice for the area, all 20-30m pitches of straight-up crack climbing, cleaned and scrubbed, with a shared station on top. peter smith and I TR'd the 5.11 face crack to the right, and it's ready for a send. to get there, walk the logging road you came in on for 1 km (guess) and struggle through the slash to a highpoint of land until you find the obvious cleaned cracks. it's a bit of a left facing corner system on the 5.8, you'll see the rest when you get there. if you walk the base of the crag you'll see them. they're way down from the established climbing, towards the highway, especially from the OB site. if your in need of photos and want to wait i'll try and get some along to you.

ryan

Claghorn Details

Alex,

In the mail I am sending you a CD with:

1. Rough topos you can redraw and relabel if needed of CNN, TVs and
Torsos, What's in Your Head?, Deception, Limited Time Only,
Shuffleupagus and Wasserboxer (route at Claghorn not in your list).
2. Scanned pictures of Claghorn routes and climbers on some of those
routes. I resized them to about half page size and scanned them as B&W
tiffs at 600 dpi. I plan to mail on Monday morning so if you have
preferences in the format/quality of the scans please let me know right
away. I can also just send the photos if you want. I'll be away from
Monday to Wednesday.

I went over your text at the website and have some comments and text
suggestions in italics:

The first access description is the directions of how to get to Nothing
Shocking/Ace of Swords/Returning. The directions for the first area
(Outward Bound) with routes #1-13 should read:

Access the area from Black Sturgeon Road of HWY 11/17 Eastbound/ Follow
Black Sturgeon Road until you see the long orange cliff proper on your
right. Continue another km to a short pullout on the right in a
half-circle of mature conifers and a flat cleared campsite. There is a
creek with water just to the north. From the campsite, follow the trail
north through the trees then up through the marked talus to the base of
the obvious Outward Bound instruction site. *(I've only climbed here a
few times and can't comment on the routes or order of routes).

The approach description for the Claghorn routes #14-23 isn't quite
right and the order of routes is mixed up. The routes are described
below as left to right so I'd suggest the following after the paragraph
about Shaun Parent's initial foray:

Approach is through a clearcut south of the campsite parking at a muddy
pullout on the east side of the road. The majority of routes are
located in front of the main cut block, and the last three routes are
at the extreme south (far right) of the wall. For the first routes walk
through the cut, then through the buffer of trees and up onto large
talus. For the last routes, walk toward the wall through the mature
forest to the south of the pullout and continue south over the talus.
Go past a prominent drainage that splits the face, then past a
monolith-like split pillar detached from the face, continue along to
the area of clean rock and condensed obvious lines with a cleared base.

Also, some changes to the route descriptions and order of routes are
needed. I also adjusted some of the **ratings, but it's a personal
opinion and may not fit with the rest of the guide- but the starred
routes are amazing crack lines on any crag, anywhere. Routes listed
LEFT TO RIGHT with my comments:

TVs and Torsos***
Good description. Located across from the pullout, just to the right of
where the solid granite comes all the way to the ground.

What's in Your Head? A3
FA Scott Fettes, Dan Green
Easily spotted across from the pullout as the wide flat orange face
with a dark streak cutting down from the top. 10m right of TVs and
Torsos. Sustained aid to the top. Ledge start through a short broken
corner gains overhanging face and two small roofs. Follows prominent
steep crack to top. Small gear including multiple knife blades.

Shuffleupagus 5.8+
FA Toby Harper, Brett Yeates
Located in the Crackerjack Pinnacle area, an elevated large recessed
ledge between What's in Your Head? and Deception. Up broken cracks to a
large offwidth crack two-thirds up with a prominent chockstone.

Deception 5.9**
FA Scott Fettes, Dan Green 7 September 1996
A prominent soaring right facing corner that looks off-angled and easy.
It is not. Climb a short face to a small ledge to where it is possible
to step into the crack. Then up a sustained right-facing corner, past a
birch to a wider crack that is followed to the top.

Limited Time Only 5.9 A1
FA Scott Fettes, Dan Green, Dave Duncan 2 Sept 1996
To the right of Deception on the right side of the tall rounded pillar.
Climb up a wide crack that trends right until it pinches. Trend up and
left on face to a new crack opening that leads into a deep chimney that
is climbed to the top. Traverse on face was aided and followed clean.

Thanksgiving Route
Dan Green, Derek Moynan Oct 1995
Just to the right of Limited Time only, where a large conifer grows on
a large ledge between large rounded pillars (called the Arena).
Unfinished line up a curving left corner to vegetated ledge.

CNN 5.10a***
FA Scott Fettes, Dan Green 17 Sept 1996
Straight in hand crack to a ledge, then up into an incredible sustained
left-facing corner flake to the top. Mutiple gear to 2".

Wasserboxer A1 5.8
Aid up a right facing corner crack to a flaring crack, then past a
tree. Difficult climbing past tree. Unfinished. Alternate free start up
offwidth possible with big gear.

Nothing Shocking
looks good

Ace of Swords
looks good

Returning
looks good

Thats what I can think of for now. Hope it helps. I am working on the
photos and scans and will send you a CD asap. Looking forward to your
feedback and may have more info for you as I go through my notes.

Dan
xxx xxx 5903 (h) Pemberton, BC