Todd Free - taj mah wall routes

the only other routes i helped with were Jimmy got gat, titon crack (just
cleaning no climbing) and some other unmentionable offwidth nightmare
randy and i cleaned at squaw bay but never returned to climb. not worth
mentioning in a guide book.

that pic on outcrops was of ryan treneer on a 5.11 gear route out there he
was working way back when. cant recall the name though.

route 461 is prison sex (my description is more accurate)and 462 is trad
route i think shaggy did with mat or dylan cumming or both.

i did one other route with steve charlton and randy on the forum wall
(they may have changed the name of the wall, it is north of the
schoolhouse area and south of reflection wall, ask randy for more info) we
put up 2.5 pitches in sept 99. first pitch was mine. 2nd randy and steve
and i third. last i heard it has not been done free or finished. stellar
route though. 1st pitch will go free at 5.12 gear (corner capped by a
small roof, bust out laybacking up steep tips to a slanting deep flaring
crack that ends in fingers to a belay!!!, 2nd will be 5.10 face with
crack, 1 bolt possibly and the 3rd 5.12 in a scoop/corner mixed.

have to go, hope that helps

[Todd]

Prison Sex route in Thunder Bay Taj Area

From: getsomeethics
To: ajoseph
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2003 2:01 pm
Subject: Prison Sex route in Thunder Bay Taj Area
i would like to see the section for sure but the guys to get to look at it would be randy reed or jody bernst or matt pellet or steve charlton i would think. the last time i was there was sept 99 when i put up prison sex. had help from dallas markall as well.

the route is about 2 degrees past vertical and is crimpy as hell the whole way except for one sloper. six bolts and cold shuts at the top. i would say the crux is about the fourth bolt matching on a smallish kinda sloping crimp and then moving off it! at least that is how i remeber it. as for the grade i have no clue. that summer i was red pointing 11a in 2-3 tries and it spat me off at least 15 times! i just guessed at 11+. not even sure if anyone has freed it since. it starts about 3-4m to the left of fire in me eye, and 2m right of the arete.

if you need more info about the route let me know. may take a while for me to get back to you though, i am in skaha climbing for a month and not checking email very often. cheers.

todd

xxx xxx 7922

PS glad to hear someone finally is getting an uptodate book for the area
out. tonnes of great climbing there!! good luck.