New Thunder Bay Rock Climbing Guide Book
Hi Alex here is some info I hope it helps I look for pictures and let you know what I have.
> ANY COMMENTS ON THIS? RANDY SUGGESTED NOT EVEN INCLUDING IT BECAUSE HE
> COULDN'T REMEMBER ANYTHING ELSE AND IT MAY BE PRIVATE PROPERTY. BUT I WANT
> TO MAKE THIS GUIDE A HISTORY PIECE AS WELL SO I HAVE INCLUDED THIS.
>
> HWY 61
> Steep Dihedrals and Corner Cracks, Bastion Wall of Cliffs in Front of Main
> Cliff Wall Allowing for 3 Sides/Faces of Climbing
>
Awsome potential for routes here. It should definitly be looked in to who owns the property and if access can be had. I remember talking with S. Parent once about this place and he said that there was some exploration done by I think him, Bill Ostrum, perhaps Paul Dedi. I did see some webbing on one route. But really the place is untouched. If I were to come back to T-bay I would for sure explore it again as a area close to the city it has good potential. Routes you have listed are right and they are located somewere on the left end.
> 3 DOUBLE BYPASS (2P)* 65m 5.9
> FA: S.Charlton, R.Treneer, Shafton Thomas
> Trend right on and around the corner once above the first cedar tree
> squeeze. A variety of options with some potential runouts. [TRAD]
>
> 4 LET'S BE FRANK (2P) ** 72m 5.8+
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> Scramble up a loose slope and start at the top of an old fixed rope at
> four bolts. P1 - Climb up past a bolt onto a big ledge. Now the crux
> involves a wicked mantle up onto the next ledge, then head right up and
> around the corner (10m) to a gear belay (1/2" - 2"). P2 - Then up the
> first obvious crack to another gear belay and then follow straight up.
> Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel down Cedar Haven. A possible variation
> that may have been climbed is a direct start from the bolt/rope ledge
> straight up through the overhang above to the first gear belay station.
> [MIXED - Pro gear to 3", 1 BOLT]
>
> 5 LET'S BE FRANK DIRECT START (1ST PITCH) 20m C2
> FA: R. Lebel, R. Reed
> Listed as not worth doing climbing and likely too loose to go free. [AID]
>
> 6 LET'S BE FRANK VARIATION (2ND PITCH) ** 45m 5.10?
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> From the first gear belay stance, continue right 5m further on the ledge
> and belay in a corner crack. Follow the vertical corner crack straight up
> through tougher laybacks to the top. Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel
> down Cedar Haven. [MIXED, 1 BOLT]
Let's be Frank went up after Cedar Haven. The route was climbed as followed. The first pitch went up to the mantle then up to the ledge that traverses right from there I climbed straight up the crack till the large ledge approx. 15-20m from the to and belayed from gear. Scott Hamilton then lead the short 2nd pitch. Currently the way you have described the pitch it is 3 pitches. Dave Nix was not involved in the climbing of the FFA. But it was him and I that cleaned the entire route one afternoon. I then went back with Scott H because Dave couldn't make it.
> 16 SPIRAL GALAXY *** 32m 5.7
> FA: S. Parent, Scott Kress '81
> Right of Beam me up... , climb up the crack to the roof and then traverse
> out onto ledge to the belay, then up the crux to same anchors as Beam me
> up... Rappel on Beam Me Up Scotty. [TRAD - Pro gear to 3.5"]
I'm pretty sure this route was not put up by Scott Kress as he was not in T-bay in 1981. You can contact him at scott@summittraining.com he may have some pictures to.
> 21 CAM-A-LOT (2P) ***(PREVIOUSLY METEOR SHOWER) 68m(25m) 5.10b(5.9)
> FA: Brendan Waye (Meteor Shower)FFA: S. Morgan (p1), J.C. Debeau (p2)
> '95 FFA: Jody Bernst (Cam-A-Lot)
> This is the crags classic hand crack. Begin climbing the lefthand crack
> stemming when required. Then alternate to the righthand crack. At about
> 20m a green sling may still preserve the history of Brendan Waye's first
> ascent. Stay to the left in the large chute stemming up a hand crack to
> the bolted belay station. [TRAD]
Meteor shower originlly only went up about 18m. Myself and JC then did the FFA of the whole line which we renamed CAM-A-LOT. I'm a little confused as to how you've described the route length. The route is from what I can remember about 65-70m with the 1st pitch a full 50m. As well Jody's name shouldn't be there as the route was done clean on the first ascent by myself and JC.
Scott Morgan
> ANY COMMENTS ON THIS? RANDY SUGGESTED NOT EVEN INCLUDING IT BECAUSE HE
> COULDN'T REMEMBER ANYTHING ELSE AND IT MAY BE PRIVATE PROPERTY. BUT I WANT
> TO MAKE THIS GUIDE A HISTORY PIECE AS WELL SO I HAVE INCLUDED THIS.
>
> HWY 61
> Steep Dihedrals and Corner Cracks, Bastion Wall of Cliffs in Front of Main
> Cliff Wall Allowing for 3 Sides/Faces of Climbing
>
Awsome potential for routes here. It should definitly be looked in to who owns the property and if access can be had. I remember talking with S. Parent once about this place and he said that there was some exploration done by I think him, Bill Ostrum, perhaps Paul Dedi. I did see some webbing on one route. But really the place is untouched. If I were to come back to T-bay I would for sure explore it again as a area close to the city it has good potential. Routes you have listed are right and they are located somewere on the left end.
> 3 DOUBLE BYPASS (2P)* 65m 5.9
> FA: S.Charlton, R.Treneer, Shafton Thomas
> Trend right on and around the corner once above the first cedar tree
> squeeze. A variety of options with some potential runouts. [TRAD]
>
> 4 LET'S BE FRANK (2P) ** 72m 5.8+
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> Scramble up a loose slope and start at the top of an old fixed rope at
> four bolts. P1 - Climb up past a bolt onto a big ledge. Now the crux
> involves a wicked mantle up onto the next ledge, then head right up and
> around the corner (10m) to a gear belay (1/2" - 2"). P2 - Then up the
> first obvious crack to another gear belay and then follow straight up.
> Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel down Cedar Haven. A possible variation
> that may have been climbed is a direct start from the bolt/rope ledge
> straight up through the overhang above to the first gear belay station.
> [MIXED - Pro gear to 3", 1 BOLT]
>
> 5 LET'S BE FRANK DIRECT START (1ST PITCH) 20m C2
> FA: R. Lebel, R. Reed
> Listed as not worth doing climbing and likely too loose to go free. [AID]
>
> 6 LET'S BE FRANK VARIATION (2ND PITCH) ** 45m 5.10?
> FA: Scott Morgan (p1), D. Nix, S. Hamilton (p2) '94
> From the first gear belay stance, continue right 5m further on the ledge
> and belay in a corner crack. Follow the vertical corner crack straight up
> through tougher laybacks to the top. Gear belays and top bolts. Rappel
> down Cedar Haven. [MIXED, 1 BOLT]
Let's be Frank went up after Cedar Haven. The route was climbed as followed. The first pitch went up to the mantle then up to the ledge that traverses right from there I climbed straight up the crack till the large ledge approx. 15-20m from the to and belayed from gear. Scott Hamilton then lead the short 2nd pitch. Currently the way you have described the pitch it is 3 pitches. Dave Nix was not involved in the climbing of the FFA. But it was him and I that cleaned the entire route one afternoon. I then went back with Scott H because Dave couldn't make it.
> 16 SPIRAL GALAXY *** 32m 5.7
> FA: S. Parent, Scott Kress '81
> Right of Beam me up... , climb up the crack to the roof and then traverse
> out onto ledge to the belay, then up the crux to same anchors as Beam me
> up... Rappel on Beam Me Up Scotty. [TRAD - Pro gear to 3.5"]
I'm pretty sure this route was not put up by Scott Kress as he was not in T-bay in 1981. You can contact him at scott@summittraining.com he may have some pictures to.
> 21 CAM-A-LOT (2P) ***(PREVIOUSLY METEOR SHOWER) 68m(25m) 5.10b(5.9)
> FA: Brendan Waye (Meteor Shower)FFA: S. Morgan (p1), J.C. Debeau (p2)
> '95 FFA: Jody Bernst (Cam-A-Lot)
> This is the crags classic hand crack. Begin climbing the lefthand crack
> stemming when required. Then alternate to the righthand crack. At about
> 20m a green sling may still preserve the history of Brendan Waye's first
> ascent. Stay to the left in the large chute stemming up a hand crack to
> the bolted belay station. [TRAD]
Meteor shower originlly only went up about 18m. Myself and JC then did the FFA of the whole line which we renamed CAM-A-LOT. I'm a little confused as to how you've described the route length. The route is from what I can remember about 65-70m with the 1st pitch a full 50m. As well Jody's name shouldn't be there as the route was done clean on the first ascent by myself and JC.
Scott Morgan
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