Prison Sex route in Thunder Bay Taj Area
From: getsomeethics
To: ajoseph
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2003 2:01 pm
Subject: Prison Sex route in Thunder Bay Taj Area
i would like to see the section for sure but the guys to get to look at it would be randy reed or jody bernst or matt pellet or steve charlton i would think. the last time i was there was sept 99 when i put up prison sex. had help from dallas markall as well.
the route is about 2 degrees past vertical and is crimpy as hell the whole way except for one sloper. six bolts and cold shuts at the top. i would say the crux is about the fourth bolt matching on a smallish kinda sloping crimp and then moving off it! at least that is how i remeber it. as for the grade i have no clue. that summer i was red pointing 11a in 2-3 tries and it spat me off at least 15 times! i just guessed at 11+. not even sure if anyone has freed it since. it starts about 3-4m to the left of fire in me eye, and 2m right of the arete.
if you need more info about the route let me know. may take a while for me to get back to you though, i am in skaha climbing for a month and not checking email very often. cheers.
todd
xxx xxx 7922
PS glad to hear someone finally is getting an uptodate book for the area
out. tonnes of great climbing there!! good luck.
To: ajoseph
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2003 2:01 pm
Subject: Prison Sex route in Thunder Bay Taj Area
i would like to see the section for sure but the guys to get to look at it would be randy reed or jody bernst or matt pellet or steve charlton i would think. the last time i was there was sept 99 when i put up prison sex. had help from dallas markall as well.
the route is about 2 degrees past vertical and is crimpy as hell the whole way except for one sloper. six bolts and cold shuts at the top. i would say the crux is about the fourth bolt matching on a smallish kinda sloping crimp and then moving off it! at least that is how i remeber it. as for the grade i have no clue. that summer i was red pointing 11a in 2-3 tries and it spat me off at least 15 times! i just guessed at 11+. not even sure if anyone has freed it since. it starts about 3-4m to the left of fire in me eye, and 2m right of the arete.
if you need more info about the route let me know. may take a while for me to get back to you though, i am in skaha climbing for a month and not checking email very often. cheers.
todd
xxx xxx 7922
PS glad to hear someone finally is getting an uptodate book for the area
out. tonnes of great climbing there!! good luck.
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home